One of the things I like to point out about building airplanes is, Don't let a percieved lack of space hold you back.

Find a way.

This shot shows several things:

• Our cabin sitting on a pair of Stanley, adjustable saw horses.
  We put common pipe insulation over them to cushion the cabin.
• Our wing is overhead on the wing-hoist we made.
• The main boom tube is visible in the lower right.

Another shot of our work area.

The boom tube is sitting on another pair of Stanley workhorses.
These are available at Home Depot, Lowes, et cetera.
I highly recommend them.

Several pieces have to be added to the ailerons before they can be mounted.

Clockwise from the top right.

• Aileron hinge half one and hinge doubler
• Aileron hinge half two and hinge doubler
• Aileron control horn
• Control horn doubler (more on this in the next frame)

You'll notice that we've removed the pins from the hinges. I feel this is the only sane way to deal with mounting the ailerons and flaps.

Before you knock out the hinge pins, be sure to label both sides so that you can match them back up later.

I just used a simple finishing nail, with the point filed flat, to knock out the original pins.

We made temporary pins out of common coat hangers to use during assembly. These slide in and out of the hinges much easier.

I normally don't add anything to the Odyssey kit. I've seen too many homebuilt projects come in extremely overweight.

But, in this case, I decided that a doubler behind the aileron control horn would be a good thing.

If you want to do something similar, I recommend using a common index card as a pattern. Cut it up with a pair of scissors and fold it until it fits just right. Then, just flatten it out and use it as a pattern.

This photo is a bit out of phase because it shows a flap hinge being aligned, rather than an aileron hinge. But, here's the technique we use.

• Start with one hinge half and locate it with respect to the wing skin it belongs to.
• Tape down the ends of the hinge.
• We use some common buck rivets to help stabilize the hinge half. You can buy these by the pound at Wicks or Aircraft Spruce.
• Put two or three rivets in and check your alignment.
• Cover rivet area with tape.
• Drill the remaining holes.
• Cover all the rivet heads with tape

Once you have all the holes drilled, temp riveted and taped, the hinge is actually strong enough to test.

This shot shows the rivet area before the remaining holes are drilled.

Once you have all the holes drilled, temp riveted and taped, the hinge is actually strong enough to test.

If you look carefully, you can see one of our temporary, coat hanger, hinge pins.

The popsicle stick is a spacer that we tape to an aileron bolt when the flaps are mounted. It makes sure that 1/16th of an inch space is maintained between the aileron horn bolt and the flap.

This shot shows mounting the second half of an aileron hinge.

We use the same, taping, and temporary rivetting technique as show above. Once you're done, you can actually test the aileron movement before final glueing and riveting

This shot shows how we use one of the stainless steel yard sticks to represent a continuation of the wing skin.

It also shows how we use a length of masking tape to limit the travel of the aileron being worked on.