This is the first time I've
been on plover warden duty since before the big
nor'easter. That would be May nor'easter version 2.0, the
interminable storm. Nor'easter the infinitely prolonged.
The eternal storm. I thought May nor'easter 1.0 had taken
a bite out of the beach but 2.0 beat it by several orders
of magnitude. This does not even look like the same
beach. There's a deep pool with current running along the
beach and a big berm of newly accumulated sand on the
other side of it. You have to ford this huge pool to get
to the waterline.
All the piping plover pairs lost
their nests in nor'easter 2.0, even the two that survived
nor'easter 1.0 and were about to hatch. One pair out of
the 7 has re-nested so far. So for some of these pairs
this will be their third attempt. There's still time
enough for the eggs to hatch and the chicks to fledge
before the fall migration, but it is a big
setback.
Nor'easter 2.0 washed away so much
sand that in uncovered a dead finback whale that had been
buried 9 years. I'm not surprised that something buried 9
years ago was uncovered, after all, on Salisbury Beach
just across the river the storms (1.0 and 2.0) uncovered
rocks that had been placed there to trap sand and build
beach in the 1940s. 1996 is yesterday compared to that.
What does surprise me is how much rotting whale flesh is
still clinging to the bones.
There's an informational sign
posted on the beach in front of the ditch containing the
whale remains. It asks "What's that smelly blob on the
beach?" and explains that it's a finback whale. At the
beginning of my shift at high tide the whale wasn't
really visible as it was covered by water. People would
read the sign, then walk over and ask me "So, where's the
whale?" As the tide started to go out, it became more
visible but was still underwater in the newly formed
pool. Basically people crossing the pool to get to the
waterline were wading in the whale's grave.
The distinctive whale smell began
to emerge as the tide went out, but it never got to be
unbearable. Jean stopped by and filled me in on the
whale's back story and told me that it was really stinky
for the plover warden who was on duty last week at this
time. So, I had to ask why on earth anybody would bury a
dead whale in the sand on a barrier beach so close to the
water. The salt water would keep it from decomposing and
the bottom creatures that would normally devour it when
it naturally sank to the bottom out at sea aren't in the
sand. Furthermore, in the immortal words of my hero Orrin
Pilkey "The beaches are moving!" It was almost guaranteed
that the remains would be exposed at some point as the
sand flowed out to sea. Anything buried on a barrier
beach will be exposed sooner or later, whether it's a
whale that's 9 years dead or a shipwreck from the 19th
century. And then it will be covered up again. Meanwhile,
it smells.
According to Jean, the whale was
originally found floating at sea and mistaken for a rare
right whale. There are so few right whales left that
scientists want to know the cause of death of every
single one. So the whale got towed in to shore to see if
scientists wanted to examine it. Once they realized it
was a finback, fairly common as whales of the north
Atlantic go, nobody wanted it. So they buried it. I guess
they didn't want to tow it back out to sea. This poor
whale, whom Nancy named Pilkey when I told her about it
this afternoon, didn't even appeal to museums like
KOBO
the blue whale or the recently
rearticulated sperm whale.
Regular readers of my
Moby
Dick Marathon entries will
remember that I comment every year that KOBO's bones
still have a slight smell of whale oil. Neither KOBO nor
the rearticulated sperm whale took nearly 9 years to
decompose. KOBO was lowered to the bottom and his flesh
devoured by sea creatures. The sperm whale was buried
inland a high temperature compost heap and then bleached
in the sun once the flesh was off the bones. Assuming
that the sand covers up Pilkey again in a week or so,
he'll be preserved in his rotting state for some time.
Poor whale. Not quite undead, but unburied.
Not a single visitor asked me about
piping plovers. Everybody asked about the whale. Nobody
asked about anything but the whale until a guy asked me
if he could go into the closed area of beach because he
was going to propose to his girlfriend and wanted to
write "Will you marry me?" in the sand so she'd see it
from an airplane in which they'd be passing over the
island at 1:30 PM. He wants to propose with a scrape in
the sand? How piping plover like can you get? I patiently
explained that I really couldn't just let him walk down
the beach with the plovers in the midst of re-nesting and
suggested that he talk to Jean and maybe she could help
him. Later as I was leaving, I saw Jean with the scrape
in the sand guy discussing where he could do this without
disturbing the plovers. I really want to know if the girl
accepts.